I Arrived in Ujjain After the Monsoon—The Ancient Temples, Shipra River, Evening Aarti, and Old City Streets Made the Whole Trip Feel Timeless

The bus rolled into Ujjain a little past six in the evening, and the air still smelled of wet earth. The monsoon had only just pulled back from Madhya Pradesh. Washed rooftops, puddles catching the last orange light, and a breeze that didn’t seem to be in a hurry gave the town a freshness that […]