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Tiwai Island Sierra Leone: Wildlife & Travel Guide

Tiwai Island Sierra Leone offers a rare rainforest wildlife experience in West Africa. Set in the Moa River, this small island is known for its diverse primates, chimpanzees, birdlife and the elusive pygmy hippo. Unlike a traditional safari, visitors explore the forest on foot, travel along the river by boat and experience wildlife in its natural surroundings.

There are no jeeps here and no crowds. Instead, you walk, get muddy and listen to the forest. If the forest is kind to you, you might catch sight of a Diana monkey leaping between branches above your head.

If you are planning a trip to Sierra Leone, this guide covers what Tiwai Island is, what you can see, how to get there, when to go and what to expect once you arrive. For a wider look at the country, you can also read our Sierra Leone travel guide.

Where Is Tiwai Island?

Tiwai Island sits in the Moa River in southeastern Sierra Leone, in the Southern Province. Its name comes from the Mende language and means “Big Island.” The island is part of the Upper Guinea rainforest, one of the last remaining pieces of the ancient forest that once stretched across much of West and Central Africa.

The nearest towns of any size are Bo and Kenema, and the usual starting point for the last leg of the trip is a village called Kambama on the riverbank. From there, a short boat ride takes you across to the island.

Why Tiwai Island Stands Out

Plenty of places in Africa have wildlife. However, what makes Tiwai different is how concentrated everything is and how the whole place is run.

The island was set aside as a sanctuary in 1987, at the request of the local Barri and Koya people. Today, it is managed as a community conservation project, and the ecotourism camp is run by the Environmental Foundation for Africa in Sierra Leone.

In addition, money from visitors goes back into the island and into a development fund that supports the nearby villages. So when you pay your entrance fee or book a guide, you are helping the people who live beside this forest keep it standing.

It is also one of the most off-the-beaten-path stops in West Africa. If you like the idea of off the beaten path destinations in Africa, Tiwai is a good example. It takes a little effort to reach, and that is part of the appeal.

For more ideas on the wider region, take a look at our West Africa travel section.

Tiwai Island Sierra Leone Wildlife: What Animals Can You See?

Short answer: a lot, though the forest is dense and the animals are shy. Here is what the island is known for.

Primates: 11 Species in One Small Forest

Tiwai is best known for its primates. Eleven species live on the island, which gives it one of the highest concentrations and varieties of primates in the world.

Among them are:

Diana monkeys, with their black-and-white coats and white beards, an endangered species that visitors often hope to spot first
Western red colobus, also listed as endangered
Sooty mangabeys, a rarer sight in the forest
Chimpanzees, the national animal of Sierra Leone

Tiwai is also where researchers first recorded chimpanzees using stones to crack open nuts.

However, wildlife sightings are not guaranteed. Poaching in the past has left the wildlife more nervous than it would otherwise be, and the forest is thick. You will often hear monkeys before you see them. For this reason, patience and a good guide can make a big difference.

Pygmy Hippos

The pygmy hippopotamus is the animal that gets people excited, but it is also the one you are least likely to see.

It is a small, solitary, nocturnal creature found only in a handful of West African countries: Sierra Leone, Liberia, Guinea and Ivory Coast. Fewer than about two thousand are believed to remain in the wild.

Tiwai is one of the best-known places to look for them. However, seeing one is a matter of luck. More often, guides will show you tracks and signs along the riverbank.

Some visitors arrange a night walk or an evening boat trip, which raises the odds a little. Even then, a sighting is far from guaranteed. If you do see one, you have been very lucky indeed.

Birds, Butterflies and More

Birdwatchers have plenty to look for here. More than 130 bird species have been recorded on the island, including several types of hornbill, the West African pied hornbill, the Timneh parrot, the rufous fishing owl, the splendid sunbird and the western bluebill.

In addition, there are hundreds of butterfly species, over 700 plant species, and the odd crocodile or otter along the river. Together, these species help explain why the place keeps researchers busy.

For general tips on getting the most out of animal spotting, our wildlife travel tips page is a good place to start.

Things to Do on Tiwai Island

Once you get across the river, there are a few main ways to spend your time.

Guided forest walks. This is the heart of the trip. Local guides know the trails, the calls and the signs of where animals have passed. Generally, morning walks are the best, when the forest is cooler and the monkeys are moving.

Boat and canoe trips on the Moa River. Meanwhile, an evening boat ride is a relaxed way to watch for birds, monkeys in the trees along the bank and possibly crocodiles. Some visitors head out after dark in the hope of seeing something more unusual.

Night walks. These can be arranged with the camp, usually at an extra cost. After dark, the forest sounds completely different.

Village visits. A visit to one of the host communities around the island gives you a look at daily life along the Moa River and a better idea of why conservation matters to the people living here. If this kind of travel interests you, read more about responsible and community-based tourism.

Swimming. Finally, in the dry season, some of the sandy river beaches are good for a cool dip after a hot walk.

How to Get to Tiwai Island Sierra Leone

Getting to Tiwai Island takes a bit of planning, but it is doable.

Start in Freetown. Most trips begin in the capital. Our Freetown travel guide has tips for your first few days.
Travel to Bo. The road from Freetown to Bo is the main highway heading east and is the easiest part of the journey. Plan on several hours.
Continue to Kambama. From Bo, or from Kenema, you head toward the village of Kambama on the Moa River. The roads in the south can be unpaved and rough, so many travelers hire a 4×4 with a driver. Local transport and motorbike taxis are options for those on a tighter budget, but they take longer.
Cross by boat. Finally, from Kambama, a short boat ride brings you to the island.

Many visitors book through a tour operator or contact the island’s camp ahead of time, so that transport, guides and beds are ready when they arrive. This is worth doing. Phone signal is weak, and turning up with no plan can waste a day.

Where to Stay on Tiwai Island

Accommodation is simple.

The ecotourism camp offers tents on raised platforms under the trees and a basic lodge with beds. Meals are cooked by camp staff.

There is no luxury here. Instead, you get the sound of the forest at night, which is loud, strange and worth the discomfort.

Prices change from year to year, so check the current rates with the camp or your tour operator before you go.

Best Time to Visit Tiwai Island

The dry season, from about November to April, is the best time to go. During this period, trails are easier to walk, roads are more reliable and the river beaches are open for swimming. December and January are popular with birdwatchers.

However, there is one thing to know. From December, the harmattan wind blows dust in from the Sahara and can leave the sky hazy, which makes it harder to see wildlife.

The rainy season is much tougher. Heavy rain can make roads impassable, and malaria risk is higher. For a fuller breakdown by month, see our post on the best time to visit Sierra Leone.

What to Pack for Tiwai Island

Lightweight long sleeves and trousers in neutral colors
Sturdy walking shoes or boots with good grip
A rain jacket, even in the dry season
Insect repellent and sunscreen
Binoculars, which make a big difference here
A headlamp or torch for night walks
A refillable water bottle and any snacks you like
Cash in small bills, since cards will not work
A small dry bag for your camera and phone

For a longer checklist, use our Africa packing list.

Health and Safety Tips

Talk to a travel clinic well before you go. Malaria is present in Sierra Leone, and you will want advice on prevention, vaccines and any other shots you need.

In addition, bring a basic first aid kit, since medical help is far away from the island. Always follow your guide’s instructions in the forest and on the river. Our travel health and malaria advice page has more detail.

Is Tiwai Island Worth Visiting?

If you want comfort, easy travel and guaranteed sightings, probably not.

However, if you want a real rainforest experience in a country that few travelers have seen, then yes.

Tiwai is a small place, but it feels big. The trails are quiet, the guides are local people who grew up beside the forest, and every sighting feels earned.

The chance of catching a Diana monkey in the canopy, hearing chimpanzees in the distance or spotting a hornbill crossing the river stays with you long after the trip.

Just set your expectations right. This is a wild place, and the wildlife will show up on its own terms.

If Tiwai inspires you, have a look at our list of more African wildlife destinations for your next trip.

Frequently Asked Questions About Tiwai Island

Where is Tiwai Island?

Tiwai Island is in the Moa River in southeastern Sierra Leone, in the Southern Province. The usual access point is the village of Kambama, reached from Bo or Kenema.

How big is Tiwai Island?

About 12 square kilometers.

What animals can you see on Tiwai Island?

The island has 11 primate species, including Diana monkeys, western red colobus, sooty mangabeys and chimpanzees. There are also more than 130 bird species, crocodiles, otters, many butterflies, and the rare pygmy hippo.

Can you see pygmy hippos on Tiwai Island?

It is possible but unlikely. They are shy and nocturnal, so most visitors see tracks rather than the animals themselves.

How do you get to Tiwai Island from Freetown?

Drive from Freetown to Bo, continue to the village of Kambama, then take a short boat ride across the Moa River. A 4×4 with a driver is the most comfortable option.

When is the best time to visit Tiwai Island?

The dry season, roughly November through April. Expect harmattan haze from December.

Where do you stay on Tiwai Island?

The island’s ecotourism camp has tents on raised platforms and a basic lodge. Meals are provided by camp staff.

Does tourism money help local people?

Yes. Tourism income is put back into the island and into a development fund for the surrounding host communities.

Planning your own trip to Tiwai Island or elsewhere in Sierra Leone? Browse more travel stories and guides at Enigma Jaunt.